Smoke In Seoul

There was a time when smoking a cigarette in a pub, train compartment, or even a cozy café was very common, at least in the Czech Republic, where I grew up. In restaurants, it was mixed with the food smells, and you could taste it, even if you didn’t order it. The smoke had no borders; it crossed as it pleased, an uninvited guest you couldn’t avoid.

I remember sitting on a train, watching the smoker in the same carriage impatiently, waiting for him to finish his cigarette, only for another to light up. And so it continued, right into my lungs and onto my clothes.

Fast forward to today, and a lot has changed. Since May 31, 2017, the Czech Republic has banned all indoor smoking in public places, including restaurants, bars, and cafés. It’s also illegal to smoke at bus and tram stops. But smoking remains deeply ingrained in the social culture, especially among older generations, and outdoor spaces still often feel like they belong to the smokers, should they choose to claim them.

In the UK, Britain led the way with its 2007 indoor smoking ban. I vividly remember when it came into effect, and while I was relieved, it was surprising to suddenly experience what pubs really smelled like. The once-masked stench of stale beer and greasy food hit my senses, and it definitely took some getting used to. But when it comes to outdoor spaces, Britain hasn’t enforced strong restrictions. You might spot no-smoking signs outside schools or near hospitals, but these are more about courtesy than actual law.

More recently, Prime Minister Rishi Sunak proposed a "smoke-free generation" law, which would ban the sale of cigarettes to anyone born after 2009. This means that today’s children may never legally purchase cigarettes in their lifetime.

So, arriving in South Korea, I was struck by something surprisingly refreshing: the visible absence of smoke in public spaces. You see office workers gathering on smoke breaks in designated areas outside their buildings, and the occasional old man quietly puffing away as he walks, but generally, seeing someone smoke out and about is rare.

Walking through Seoul, it’s not unusual to see signs saying "No Smoking within 10 meters of subway entrances." Enforcement officers patrol some areas, and lighting up in undesignated spots can get you a ₩100,000 fine (about £55). The message is clear: smoking is allowed, but only where it belongs. South Korea is making a serious effort to change what was once one of the highest smoking rates in the developed world, particularly among men. Historically, smoking has been tied to military service, stress, and social bonding, making this shift even more significant.

In Prague or London, you can still legally light up while strolling down the street. In Seoul, it’s a different story, and I like it. The absence of smoke in public spaces makes it more pleasant to walk around, at least when the pollution is low. Seoul is known for its pollution, with fine dust from industrial areas and neighbouring countries often clouding the sky, and many Koreans wear masks as a result. There are even apps that warn you when the air quality is bad, and schools sometimes ban children from playing outside during high pollution periods. But at least you know you’re not breathing in nicotine you didn’t bargain for.