Lenka Morgan-Warren

We came to the Philippines just after Christmas to escape winter — from -9°C in Seoul to +29°C in Cebu. Four hours later, on a direct flight, we landed on the tropical island alongside many Korean holidaymakers. Cebu felt very Korean-friendly: Hangul signs, familiar restaurants, and a sense of recognition in an otherwise new place. After a long queue for taxis at the airport, we were finally on our way. Through the window of our Grab ride, we caught glimpses of local life — tuk-tuks and...

We were invited to Thanksgiving dinner on the American base in Seoul — the kind of invitation you can only get if you “know someone on the inside.” Our American friends took us, and from the moment we drove in, it felt like stepping through a crack in time. The wind was howling, the streets were dark, and the buildings stood like tired giants, holding the memories of everything they once were. It felt like something out of an Alfred Hitchcock film… the quiet kind, where nothing moves but you...

We decided to finally take up Korea’s national sport and embark on our first hike. Novice trail,  they said — Gwanaksan, here we come!  It’s one of Seoul’s beloved mountains, and what an adventure it turned out to be. Our taxi driver told us that “san”  means mountain  and “ak”  suggests difficult  — which, we quickly learned, was no exaggeration. The hike starts near Seoul National University  and takes you up to the peak of the mountain  and the Yeonjudae Temple . All the Koreans seemed to...